Neverending
journey indeed! Great scott, but I had
little idea when typing that last post how much more real that sentiment grew
to become. (And Limahl is SO off my
Christmas card list).
Two (2) more
nights it took us to find a way through the pack ice. Two (ii)!
It was like Groundhog Day on ice.
(Icehog Day?) The daily routine
was to wake up in the morning, shamble up to the bridge and be disappointed –
but unsurprised – to discover that we were heading in the wrong direction, and
that Davis was further away than it had been at bedtime.
The jokes
around the table at mealtimes about not reaching Davis grew so bitter that they
were souring the milk
But, on the
third day, happiness! Joy! Wonderment! Chocolate! The captain had managed to find a route
through the ice that not only didn’t thicken into an impenetrable wall of… uh…
impenetrableness, but actually opened out into beautiful, beautiful blue water.
Even better,
after several hours of ice free steaming – land! All across the ship the smiles were so broad
that people’s teeth were at risk of sunburn.
And here is
that land. Not only land, but somewhere
underneath that cloud – Davis! (Also,
hiding somewhere in this picture – Swim-Swim, the photobombing penguin).
Where's Wally? |
So on we
sailed, closer and closer. Smilier and
smilier. As we approached the coast the
ice started to build up again, but not so much as to impede our progress. People started gathering at the bow to watch
our approach. As did I. (Secretly I wanted to get to Davis
first. And WIN!) While I was there, I took this opportunistic
(and characteristically mediocre) photograph of an Adelie penguin on one of the
floes we passed.
Yes, there is a penguin in this photo. Don't be rude. |
Exciting,
yes? Of course it is.
As we neared
the coast the amount of ice and number of grounded icebergs increased
significantly. Accordingly the ship was
slowed to ensure a safe passage. Not
necessarily a bad thing – it gave those people who owned a camera (i.e.
everyone) ample opportunity to capture the stunning scenery we were gliding
through.
By way of
example…
Even I couldn't muck this up. |
I think the
skipper might have a sadistic streak.
The closer we got to our destination, the more slowly he drove the ship. At one point it seemed that if he had been
going any more slowly we would have been going astern. No doubt he had sound operational reasons to
reduce his speed, but they would be just useful excuses to explain the real
purpose; his torturing of his eager passengers.
At last
though, we rounded one of the grounded icebergs and… DAVIS!
Or maybe it
was Legoland. Difficult to tell at a
distance.
By this
stage not a single expeditioner remained belowdecks. Even those who had raised seasickness to an
art form found that the occasion was sufficient to warrant getting up. (And the sea was perfectly calm too, for that
matter). Everyone crowded the upper
decks, seeking that special vantage point.
By this
stage I felt that the best vantage point was to be had on the very highest
point on the ship (Called, for some arcane reason, the ‘monkey deck’. Mariners are weird). And here is a photo I took from there,
showing the expederati on the bow jostling for prime position.
Jostling |
After a
while the “Ooh, we’re getting close to Davis” thing was starting to pall on
me. After a while, you can only deal
with a few hours of “Ooh, we’re getting close to Davis” at -2°C before the
novelty grows whiskers.
At some
point I turned to look behind us, and felt that the scene that presented itself
was worth sharing. So here – cop a load
of this:
Scenery. Antarctica has some. |
Purdier’n
yer best Sunday dress, ain’t it?
But, as it
turns out, we were indeed getting close to Davis. Very close, in fact. Close enough, indeed, to take this photo.
Home. For a little while, anyway. |
As I later
discovered, that red building up the back was to be my home until
February. Ah, home sweet
(multi-coloured) home.
However, by
this stage it was 9:45 at night. Far too
late to do anything other than drop the anchor and wait until morning to begin
transferring personnel and cargo by helicopter.
So, I would
have to be patient. As will you, since I
am not writing this blog any more today.
Nosir!
The riveting detail of travelling from ship to shore will be covered in the next breathtaking instalment of Jeff of the South!
The riveting detail of travelling from ship to shore will be covered in the next breathtaking instalment of Jeff of the South!
Till then!
Loving your blog Jeff! Great work - keep it up!!
ReplyDeleteThanks Bec! And because you say so, I will!
Deleteland with no ice? Whatever is Antarctica coming to?
ReplyDeletePrecisely. Which is why this site was chosen in the early 50s. The prevailing weather patterns mean that there is very little snowfall here, and much of what does fall blows away.
DeleteMind you, the Antarctic Plateau begins jut 10km away - and that is a truckload of ice.
This is great! But like ravenscape I was a bit surprised to see no snow. However, Swim-swim is becoming a bit of an icon, and the photos are fabulous.
ReplyDeleteThank you so much, Anne!
DeleteAs above, there is heaps of ice about - just not in the local vicinity of the Vestfold Hills.
That Swim-Swim, eh? He's a rum'un.
Legoland it is!
ReplyDeleteTotes!
DeleteGreat photos! I can't believe how soft you Davis expeditioners are - 2 days stuck in the ice! That's not stuck in the ice my friend...(insert smug, slightly bitter smirk here).
ReplyDeleteThanks!
DeleteAlthough technically we weren't stuck in any ice at all. We just couldn't get through it.
Graham reckons it was inevitable that SIPEX was going to get stuck. Maybe he's right.